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INTRODUCTION

This is how I exploit and arrange a D50.

Want free dwell telephone support, 24 hours a day, 12 months a year? In case you’re within the USA, call (800) NIKON-UX! Nikon also has a few of it’s personal operator’s tutorials here.

I start off explaining things so merely my mom can understand, and get on to deciphering each menu merchandise for advanced users at the bottom.

For extra examples of why you’d want to change these settings and why, also see my Maui Photo Expedition page.

BASICS:

CAMERA

Many of those changes require you to be in be in the P, S, A or M publicity modes. You set that on the top dial. The cute preset modes usually lock out some adjustments.

I go away most settings at their defaults and use the Program publicity mode. I by no means use the lovable little preset icon modes because I favor to set something particular myself.

ISO: I use 200. If the sunshine gets dim and my images would get blurry from slower shutter speeds I improve the ISO to 400, 800 or 1,600. I never hassle with in-between settings like 250 or 640. The D50 appears to be like high-quality at ISO 1,600 in the event you want it. I’d a lot slightly have a barely grainy but sharp image than a less grainy but blurry one. Not like movie, the D50 appears nice at excessive ISOs, so I exploit them anytime I want them.

I would love to use ISO AUTO, however often don’t because it also remains energetic in Handbook publicity mode. This firmware defect defeats the purpose of the handbook publicity mode. Using menus to deactivate AUTO ISO for manual publicity mode takes more time than AUTO ISO saves. Rats.

White Balance (WB): I would use AUTO and an 81A glass warming filter on the lens. I want warmer (oranger) images. I clarify white balance on my White Balance web page and clarify extra about easy methods to modify it on the D50 later.

QUAL: I shoot JPG NORMAL. That is referred to as NORM and L on the highest LCD, which stands for NORMal JPG compression and Large (3,008 x 2,000) image size.

I’ve made 12 x 18″ prints of the same shot made in BASIC, NORMAL, FINE and raw. I noticed NO difference! Critically, for those who noticed these prints you would not be able to kind them out either. I can see only the slightest differences on my monitor enlarged to 100%, which has similarities to a 20 x 30″ print, and my digital LCD monitor has a hundred% MTF pixel-to-pixel, which prints don’t. Don’t be concerned: when you need house, shoot BASIC and nobody will see the difference. The only option to tell is by trying at the file size.

I’ll use BASIC for events and sports after I’m shooting many a whole lot and lots of of images at once. In these instances I’m more concerned with time wasted for the information to switch, copy and archive. Fundamental seems to be 99% the same as FINE, even blown up big.

I’ll use FINE on uncommon events the place I am capturing just some images and count on to peer at them very closely. In these circumstances the extra dimension isn’t vital if I expect to be spending lots of time analyzing every image.

I avoid FINE JPG as a result of NORM gives me the identical outcomes, with half the file size. If I shot FINE I might run out of room on a card and miss a shot. Lacking a shot is a very seen defect, and I see no defects in NORM. Nikon knows what they’re doing. That’s why they call it Regular and that’s why I usually use Regular JPG.

OPTIMIZE IMAGE: I prefer the vivid coloration I get from Fuji’s Velvia 50 movie, so I tweak a D50 to provide color as vivid as I can get. To do this go to MENU > Capturing Menu (camera icon) > Optimize Picture > Custom > (set Saturation to + and Coloration Mode to IIIa) > – - Carried out > OK. When you forget to pick out “- – Achieved” and hit OK it will not keep in mind these settings! Details are on the Capturing Menu page.

For photographs of individuals I either set the colours again to normal, or cheat and use the Portrait preset mode on the highest dial.

FOCUS: AF.

METERING: Matrix.

LENS

Many lenses have no switches or settings. In that case, don’t worry.

More superior lenses have focus mode settings, which might be either “M/A – A,” or “A – M” on older lenses.

On older lenses I go away it at “A,” which is Autofocus. “M” is handbook focus. Sometimes you even have to maneuver the switch on the camera, which is a pain.

If the swap says “M/A – A” then I exploit M/A. This gives autofocus, and if I seize the main focus ring it instantly lets me make guide corrections. As soon as I faucet the shutter button again I get autofocus. This M/A setting, if the lens has it, gives each sorts of focus without ever having to move any switches . It is the best.

Non-G lenses will have an aperture ring where the lens is connected to the camera. Set this this ring to the largest quantity, usually 22, if not 32 or 16. This number can be in orange on autofocus lenses. There normally is a lock to maintain this ring set there, since if it comes off that setting you may get an error message from the D50.

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